Best, Worst & OK NOLA Eats - July 2024
I spent a whole week in New Orleans for ESSENCE Fest. Here's everywhere and everything I ate.
It felt good being back in New Orleans for ESSENCE Fest. I was last in the Crescent City in October (vlogs, blogs and itinerary).
I spent a week in NOLA this trip, so I got to try a lot of restaurants—some repeats, some new-to-mes.
The majority of my meals and dining experiences were wonderful. Only a handful didn’t meet the moment. Let’s get into it…
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Best: Breakfast at Bearcat CBD
I first went to Bearcat CBD last October. I had to go back this trip. It’s a must every time I’m visiting NOLA. This spot doesn’t take reservations, and you can easily wait (outdoors) up to 90 minutes to be seated. It really depends on when you visit (I suggest going when they open).
If you eat seafood, get the crawfish daddy or couyon daddy. My three friends had the brisket and loved it.
I will say: service was lacking this second visit. It took a while to be acknowledged and seated upon entering. Mind you: it was empty!
Best: Dinner at Meril
I’ve heard a few things about Emeril Lagasse’s casual concept in CBD, but I didn’t know Meril was going to hit like this!
Not only were they able to accomodate our group of eight, the service was great. Literally, every small plate and the fig and prosciutto pizza were perfect. The crab pasta entree most of us ordered…I’m praying to God the kitchen just forgot to season the pasta (and the sauce) this one time. Other than that, 10/10 experience.
Best: Dinner at Commander’s Palace
Had to squeeze in at least one fine dining experience this trip. I did new kids on the block Dakar NOLA and MaMou last year, but it was time to try a New Orleans institution.
Commander’s Palace’s award-winning “New Haute Creole” cuisine was delicious. Service is one-of-one. High-touch (but not in an annoying way) and so much attention to detail! This is where you go for occasions and to impress.
Best: Lunch at Li’l Dizzy’s Cafe
The Black-owned spot serves up straightforward soul food restaurant and is loved by both locals and tourists. The second my Uber pulled up to Tremé Saturday afternoon, I almost gave up on Li’l Dizzy’s Cafe.
I wasn’t waiting an hour to be seated indoors or on the patio, so my best friend and I ordered takeout from the tent in the back. I had a refreshing whiskey peach lemonade while I waited. I forgot to take pictures or videos of my food back at the hotel, I was so pressed! At least I have my memories.
Best: Dinner at Couvant
Inside the Eliza Jane Hotel, Couvant was the sleeper of this trip! It was a last-minute reservation, but the French-Southern menu was so good. I’m shocked it wasn’t packed when we went for dinner festival Saturday.
We all loved our entrees, but I regret not getting the beef bourguignon, their most popular dish. This is what I get for insisting I only eating seafood when I’m in NOLA. Sigh.
Also: the hotel’s courtyard garden is very #aesthetic to get your pictures and content off.
Best: Snack at Loretta’s Authentic Pralines
Loretta’s is the superior beignet shop in NOLA. Black-owned. I’m sad I only went once during this trip, but there simply wasn’t enough time.
It was ESSENCE Fest weekend, so we waiting in line for an hour, which is crazy since we arrived 10 minutes before opening on Sunday. The crab beignet and praline beignets have an anointing on them, so the wait is worth it.
Note: I don’t do the French Market location. Get out the tourist zones and head to Marigny. And walk over to Black-owned Baldwin & Co. for an If Beale Street Could Talk coffee afterwards.
Best: Lunch at Chapter IV
The Black-owned restaurant owned by Leah Chase’s grandson was on my list in October, but I didn’t have enough time. I went to Chapter IV for a desperately-needed solo lunch the Monday after the festival. I sat at the bar, since I didn’t have a reservation. No issues there.
Chapter IV blew me away. And I didn’t even eat anything too crazy or heavy. Crab and corn soup for an appetizer, and pan-seared fish and squash for my entree. One of the best meals I had the entire trip. And the bread pudding, grandma’s exact recipe, is divine.
Best: Lunch at Café Reconcile
Dare I say my final meal in New Orleans was the best?! Café Reconcile was also on my list for October, but the limited operating hours didn’t work too well with my itinerary. The non-profit restaurant made The New York Times Best Restaurant List in 2023, and executive chef Martha Wiggins is a two-time James Beard Award semifinalist.
Seeing a training program for teenagers and young adults interested in hospitality careers out-do many traditional restaurants in terms of food, service and atmosphere…amazing.
And the food was a steal! My crab cakes (rivaling ones you’d find in Maryland), fried catfish plate and fried green tomato BLT to go should’ve cost more! I’m offended I didn’t pay more. I would’ve done it too…for charity!
OK: Dinner at Morrow’s
I wanted this Marigny spot to be a best so bad. I’ve heard so much about the restaurants under this Black-owned hospitality group. Morrow’s was was just OK though.
What I will say: Morrow’s is good for an after work or happy hour vibe. It was packed for a Tuesday evening. Great music.
Our server was so fine with the most hypnotizing NOLA accent, so I was blinded to whether or not we actually had good service. My friends say it was meh. Sure.
OK: Lunch at Drago’s
I’ve tried my fair share of chargrilled oysters in New Orleans. They’re my raison d'etre when I visit. Drago’s is overrated to many, and the rest of the menu is just OK, but the Hilton New Orleans Riverside restaurant consistently has some of the best chargrilled oysters in the city.
If you only have time to have chargrilled oysters once while you’re in NOLA, just go to Drago’s.
OK: Dinner at Luke
All I wanted after a long day at the convention center hosting an ESSENCE Authors panel was a delicious dinner before, but that’s asking too much.
Service was good. The bartenders were better. And the men traipsing in and out of Luke from the attached Hilton New Orleans/St. Charles Avenue were fine and flirty.
But my burger wasn’t seasoned at all! AT ALL. Just beef and vibes. I did enjoy the roasted Brussels sprouts. Jalapeños as a garnish were interesting choice.
OK: Dinner at Tacklebox
We stayed at the Renaissance New Orleans Pere Marquette French Quarter Area Hotel on Common Street. I stayed at the hotel in October too.
By day three of the festival, we were run ragged and didn’t have the energy to get dinner at Muriel’s before the evening concerts as planned. We ate at the Tacklebox, the hotel’s restaurant, instead.
The chargrilled oysters and crab and corn soup did what needed to be done. Solid food option when you’re staying at the hotel and short on both time and energy. Asking our waiter for water seven times was annoying.
OK: Dinner at Neyow’s Creole Café
I wanted Neyow’s to be a best so bad. I’ve been to this Black-owned favorite twice before, but I was sick this third visit after having the chargrilled oysters. I don’t know if it’s because it was ESSENCE Fest and they were slammed with patrons and celebrities.
Neyow’s is still a great after work and weekend vibe though. I don’t think they were honoring its 2-for-1 drinks happy hour special because of the festival. Welp.
Worst: Brunch at Café Fleur De Lis
Finding brunch on July 4 (the day before the festival starts) was a struggle. On our walk from the hotel to Ruby Slipper, we stumbled upon Café Fleur De Lis on Camp Street. We know Ruby Slipper is uber popular and we’d be waiting a while, so we didn’t seem harm in putting our name on the waiting list at Café Fleur De Lis.
Our tables at both restaurants were ready around the same time after waiting almost 40 minutes. Ruby Slipper’s front of house didn’t have it together, so we walked back Café Fleur De Lis.
The fried green tomatoes and beignets were great, and that’s it. My shrimp and grits were too saucy, buttery, cheesy and salty. Our service wasn’t good either. Quite a few of the items the table ordered were no longer available. Instead of communicating that and giving us the option to make different choices, our server took it upon himself to make substitutions, modifications and replacements for us. Excuse me?
Worst: Brunch at Monday
I wasn’t expecting some gourmet culinary experience getting brunch at Monday on Sunday. The Black-owned Mid-City spot is for party brunching, vibes and being seen. Like most turn-up brunches, the food is truly secondary, but the prices didn’t match the food and service. Both were lacking.
Many people say Monday’s sweet potato beignets are everything, so try those, but I had just gone to Loretta’s earlier in the day.
What I will give Monday: they were very accomodating combining our two reservations for six people each, and seating all 12 of us together. That was very nice. Our server was nice too, but poor thing was overwhelmed and couldn’t stay organized.
I’d say give Morrows another chance. My mouth is still watering from the crawfish pasta!