NOLA Day 3: Black history and art, and more crab beignets
Bearcat CBD, New Orleans African American Museum, Loretta's (again), Baldwin & Co. (again), Studio BE and MaMou.
That feeling I felt on day 2? Still feeling it on day 3. What am I about to do, y’all?!
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Watch the day 3 companion vlog on TikTok or Reels.
Breakfast at Bearcat CBD
Many argue Bearcat has one of the best brunch spots in New Orleans. I had to see for myself.
Bearcat CBD was a 15-minute walk from my hotel near the French Quarter. The original Bearcat is uptown in the Freret neighborhood. Depending on when you go, expect to wait in line outside. They don’t take reservations.
They opened at 8 a.m. on Friday. I arrived at 8:20 a.m. No line. No wait. I got seated at the bar immediately. That’s a perk when you’re a party of one. However, when I left an hour later, there was a growing line.
It was lively for a mid-October weekday morning. There’s also a gorgeous and pretty spacious outdoor space. Based on videos I’ve seen, it can get a little popping at Bearcat on the weekends. If I actually move to NOLA, I’ll be there regularly with my girls.
The food and beverage selection is extensive. I got the Lobster Daddy and a Brunch Punch. I got my egg fried instead of poached. That crawfish gravy on the biscuit that sat underneath my fried lobster tail? WOW.
Culture at New Orleans African American Museum
After returning to my hotel and watching the wedding episode of Love is Blind season 5, I took a ride share to historic Tremé to visit the New Orleans African American Museum.
The museum is temporarily housed in its administrative building across the street from the original campus, which is undergoing renovations. Admission was $20.
Tremé is the oldest Black neighborhood in the United States, and NOAAM’s Everywhere We Are, Everywhere We Go collection takes you through that history from the beginning.
Two things I felt walking through the exhibits:
Ancestral connection: As a Haitian-American, I felt a strong sense of kinship. And it makes sense. In the seven years after the Haitian Revolution, nearly 10,000 Haitians settled in New Orleans. Even before I got to the museum, I felt the connection in the city’s cooking, architecture, music, art, Mardi Gras traditions, spiritual practices, and of course, the last names.
Frustration: phlegm, one of the artists featured in the museum’s Proof of Life exhibit, is famous for the saying, “Everything you love about New Orleans is because of Black people.” And is! So it was lowkey upsetting learning more about how New Orleans’ Black community has been disenfranchised over the years from things like the extension of Interstate 10 in the late 1960s, gentrification, and environmental racism. If NOLA is in my future, I want to do important work in those areas.
There are also exhibits focused on Afrofuturism and Dutch Morial, NOLA’s first Black mayor, on the top floor.
Also: Apparently, I’m an art collector now, because I definitely purchased a $75 art print that might be 8”x 10”. Might. I think it’s a tad smaller. I’ve never spent this much on art in my life. But it’s going to be cute in my home office’s forthcoming Afrocentric gallery wall.
Lunch at Loretta’s Authentic Pralines (again)
While at NOAAM, I got a call from one of my new friends (claiming it) from Dakar NOLA to hang with her and her friends visiting town, one of whom was also at dinner on Thursday. I suggested we meet up at Loretta’s after I finish at the museum.
I knew the error of my ways on day 2. I got TWO crab beignets this time. And after that 20-minute walk in sunny 80-degree weather from the museum? I deserve.
I also opted for an order of praline beignets instead of the traditional ones I got the day before. Delicious! Loretta’s is famous for its pralines, so these beignets gave me a little praline experience without taking a half dozen pralines back to D.C.
I met a follower at Loretta’s too. She was visiting from New Jersey. Hey, girl!
Hanging at Baldwin & Co. (again)
After lunch, we went to Baldwin & Co. Not me becoming a regular! But I would be there regularly working remotely, meeting with my friends, and attending book events like the one on November 9 with Jesmyn Ward in conversation with Kiese Laymon—two of my favorite authors. SIGH.
I enjoyed the iced Vanilla Brown Sugar Latte the day before a lot, but I wanted to try something different.
The barista convinced me to try the Baldwin & Co. favorite If Beale Street Could Talk. Patrons love the notes of cocoa and cayenne pepper, and the brown sugar is still prominent like the VBSL.
As someone who doesn’t drink coffee. I loved this one too! This would be great in hot chocolate form. Please steal this idea!
Art Shxt at Studio BE
The girls and I split after Baldwin & Co. I headed to the Bywater neighborhood next to check out Studio BE.
Yes, the 35,000-square-foot warehouse-turned-gallery with the now iconic outdoor mural. This one.
Admission was $15. Tickets are $10 for seniors, teachers, students military, healthcare workers, and first responders. The gallery is free for students, teachers, and Louisiana residents on Wednesdays. These are all for self-guided tours. You can book guided tours though.
Studio BE is from the mind of New Orleans native and visual artist Brandan BMike Odums and has become a must-go tourist destination showcasing art from local creatives.
Walking through the gallery gets a little heavy sometimes, as many of the exhibits contend with police brutality, mass incarceration, and natural disasters. It was stunning nonetheless. I wish I had the mind and talent.
This is a great activity to do solo, but it’s also somewhere to get your pictures off for the ‘Gram. I wish I was with friends or bought my tripod.
One more thing: I don’t think the gallery portion of the warehouse is air-conditioned, so please be mindful when visiting. I had my Amazon Teddy Bear fan on me!
I really wanted to go to JAMNOLA, an experiential art pop-up, around the corner afterward, but I needed a nap. Next trip.
Dinner at MaMou
I was heavily influenced by ‘Best Of’ lists when planning this trip. MaMou, which opened in late 2022 like Dakar, has made quite a few lists. I made my reservation four weeks in advance.
The modern French brasserie, near Louis Armstrong Park and gives Pink Mamma Paris vibes, was named one of the 24 Best New Restaurants of 2023 by Bon Appétit Magazine. The New York Times included MaMou in both its 50 Best Restaurants 2023 and 25 of the Best Restaurants in New Orleans Right Now lists.
My meal started off with a glass of complimentary Champagne. I also ordered a Pink Your Poison as my cocktail. I with I tried their orange espresso martini. I discovered espresso martinis in August. Maybe I like coffee.
The garlic almond soup was the best part of my meal. That poached egg wrapped in prosciutto in the center of the bowl really surprised me! I’m not sure the added grated truffle is standard, but I got some. Maybe a perk of solo dining?
I also had the celeriac crab remoulade on top of toasted brioche bread basted in crab butter.
I was stuffed by the time my risotto came out. I ate one shrimp and had two spoonfuls of risotto before getting it boxed up to go.
MaMou is cute for date night and dinner when want to impress family or work clients. I’d come back to have that soup again.
Another splurge-y solo date at $130 after tipping. I’m worth it.
Tomorrow on day 4: More culture, brunch, and something sweet before heading home.